Guido Magnone

Guido Magnone, lahir 1 Februari 1917, di Turin, Italia, dan meninggal 9 Juli 2012 di Clamart, adalah seorang pendaki gunung dan pematung Perancis. Putra seorang imigran Italia, Guido Magnone tiba di Paris ketika dia berusia empat tahun. Setelah menjadi pekerja karton, ia mengikuti renang, polo air, dan, sebagai pematung berbakat, mengambil kursus di Beaux-Arts. Baru pada tahun 1942, pada usia 25 tahun, saat kebetulan tinggal di Chamonix, dia menemukan pegunungan tersebut. Dia mengabdikan dirinya untuk itu dan menjadi salah satu pendaki terbaik di generasinya, menambah daftar penaklukan bergengsi: pendakian pertama Fitz Roy di Patagonia, di sisi barat Drus di Pegunungan Alpen, di Makalu di Himalaya. Rekan talinya adalah Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Louis Lachenal. Mengenai Fitz Roy dicapai pada tahun 1951 oleh Lionel Terray dan Guido Magnone yang mencapai prestasi terakhir. Pendakian harus dianggap sebagai salah satu prestasi pendakian gunung paling luar biasa sepanjang masa, tidak hanya karena kesulitan ekstrem yang diatasi dalam pendakian bebas dan buatan, yang layak dilakukan di Petit Dru West Face. Pada tahun 1957, ia mengambil alih jabatan kepala National Union of Mountain Centers dari Jean Franco, menunjuk direktur sekolah pendakian gunung dan ski Praz de Chamonix, dan berpartisipasi dalam pembentukan organisasi rekreasi terbesar untuk kaum muda, Union of Outdoor Centers (UCPA), yang lahir dari penggabungan antara National Union of Mountain Centers dan French Nautical Union. Infrastruktur yang dibangun akan berkontribusi pada penyebaran pendakian gunung, ski, berperahu, dan menyelam secara populer. “Jika dipikir-pikir, tulisnya pada tahun 2005, saya tahu bahwa UCPA-lah yang memberi saya kekayaan terbesar. Dua puluh tahun yang dihabiskan untuk pembentukan dan pengembangan organisasi aksi sosial ini, dalam banyak hal, jauh lebih besar daripada penaklukan Himalaya sepanjang 8.000 meter”. Guido Magnone tinggal di antara Paris dan Saint-Raphaël dan dari tahun 1977, ia kembali ke hasrat pertamanya: patung, untuk mengabdikan dirinya sepenuhnya padanya sekitar tahun 1990. Ia mulai berpameran lagi pada tahun 1996. Pada tahun 2002, ia memamerkan pahatannya di Paris, Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta lalu di Etroubles pada tahun 2009.

Guido Magnone, born February 1, 1917, in Turin, Italy, and died July 9, 2012 in Clamart, was a French mountaineer and sculptor. Son of Italian immigrants, Guido Magnone arrived in Paris when he was four years old. Having become a cardboard worker, he took up swimming, water polo, and, a gifted sculptor, took courses at the Beaux-Arts. It was only in 1942, at the age of 25, during a chance stay in Chamonix, that he discovered the mountains. He devoted himself to it and became one of the best climbers of his generation, adding to his list of prestigious conquests: first climbs of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, of the west face of the Drus in the Alps, of Makalu in the Himalayas. His rope companions are Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Louis Lachenal. Regarding the Fitz Roy, it was reached in 1951 by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone who achieved the final feat. The ascent must be considered one of the most extraordinary mountaineering feats of all time, not only for the extreme difficulties overcome in free and artificial climbing, worthy of the Petit Dru West Face. In 1957, he took over as head of the National Union of Mountain Centers from Jean Franco, appointed director of the Praz de Chamonix mountaineering and ski school, and participated in the creation of the largest leisure organization for young people, the Union of Outdoor Centers (UCPA), born of the merger between the National Union of Mountain Centers and the French Nautical Union. The infrastructures put in place will contribute to popular dissemination of mountaineering, skiing, boating and diving. "With hindsight, he wrote in 2005, I know that it was the UCPA that brought me the greatest wealth. The twenty years invested in the creation and development of this social action organization have been, in many respects far greater than the 8,000 meters of a Himalayan conquest". Guido Magnone lives between Paris and Saint-Raphaël and from 1977, he returns to his first passion: sculpture, to devote himself fully to it around 1990. He begins to exhibit again in 1996. In 2002, he exhibits his sculptures in Paris , Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta then in Etroubles in 2009.